Friday, May 29, 2009

All The Very Best To You


Dear Friends & Readers -
It's time for me to bring this blog to an end.
Long time readers of Granny Miller are aware that for quite awhile I have struggled with the time and effort necessary to keep Granny going.

Thank you all for the support, kindness and prayers that you have bestowed upon me over the last 3 years.

Each and every one of you have been a precious gift to me.
My life has been made more complete and whole because of you.

It is my hope that Granny Miller will remain as a source of encouragement and inspiration to others seeking life of greater self reliance, freedom and personal responsibility.

All the best to you always,

Katherine Grossman

Yellow Hawkweed


King Devil (Hieracium caespitosum),
also known as Hawkbit, Yellow Fox-and-Cubs, Yellow Devil, Yellow Hawkweed, Yellow Paintbrush, Devil's Paintbrush, Yellow King-Devil or Meadow Hawkweed is starting to bloom along some of the poorer soil and old strip mine ground near the back of my farm.

I've always considered Yellow Hawkweed to be a wildflower and not a weed.
In factI have an older book about wildflowers with color plates who's author thinks so too.



Here in western Pennsylvania, bloom time for Yellow Hawkweed is from late May to the middle of June.

Yellow Hawkweed is a perennial plant and is very similar to Orange Hawkweed.

Both are members of the sunflower family (Asteraceae) and have a very shallow root system, narrow pointed leaves and hairy stems.
Yellow Hawkweed is almost always indicative of an acidic soil and is not native to the Americas.

Yellow Hawkweed was first introduced to upstate New York around 1879 from Europe, and was brought to America as an ornamental plant and as a herbal remedy.

In just a 130 years Yellow Hawkweed has quickly spread across America and is considered a troublesome and noxious weed.

Today Yellow Hawkweed is found in pastures, meadows, roadside ditches, lawns and gardens.



Once it is introduced into an area it quickly forms dense patches and can be resistant to most herbicides.



If not controlled Hawkweed patches can expand into very large areas and displace desired native or forage species.

I think the best way to control Yellow Hawkweed is by digging it up or using a Glyphosate herbicide. Roundup is very effective at killing Yellow Hawkweed but is non-selective and will also kill grasses or other plants in the area that is sprayed.

Mowing really doesn't control Hawkweed and only encourages further growth and flowering.

Yellow Hawkweed is related to dandelions, and like dandelions they can produce seed without insect pollination.
Each new Hawkweed plant is a clone duplicate of its parent.

Some of the older names of the older names for Yellow Hawkweed is King Devil or Yellow Fox-and-Cubs.

I'm not sure why or how it got those names, but what I do know is that it was consider in ancient times as a remedy for poor eyesight.
Seems that folklore maintains that hawks would eat the plant to improve their sight - hence the name Hawkweed or Hawkbit.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Soak Hard Seeds For Easier Germination


Sometimes hard seeds need a little help.

Did you know that if you soak seeds with a hard coat like morning glory, sweet peas or moon flower for 24 hours before you plant them that they will germinate easier?
It's true.

Another trick is to nick the seed with a nail file or sharp knife before it is soaked.

Some people will add a little milk or vinegar to the water.
The acid helps to break down the hard seed coating.


Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Storing Canning Jars & Freezer Containers


The above photo is of every jar or freezer container opened and contents consumed, in my household since September 2008.

For a brief 24 hours early last fall every canning jar that I owned was in use.

Around here canning jars and freezer containers go through 2 distinct phases -
full of food - and empty in storage.

I have found that the best way to store unused jars and freezer containers is in large, clear plastic storage tubs.

Jars are stored without their bands



and freezer containers are stored with their lids.



After I open and empty a canning jar or freezer container, I wash it and make sure that it's perfectly dry before moving it to the storage bin.

I have no idea exactly how many canning jars I own.
I think it could be 600.
I just don't know.

I plan to take a count of canning jars when I do my yearly inventory next month.
I'll let you know what I come up with.

What I do know is that home canning and food production is a very sustainable way of life and has almost no impact on landfills.

Just imagine if all those jars and freezer containers in the above picture were empty soup cans, frozen entree boxes, meat tins and tomato sauce jars thrown into the trash and then land filled?

Now multiply all those containers and jars by the 30 years or so that I've been regularly home canning, and then add the rest of my life - maybe another 25 years.

Quite a savings in terms of landfill space wouldn't you say?
Not to mention economic savings and quality of life.



And that's not even taking into account all the plastic freezer bags that can be reused (I store and recycle them too).

Now add the rest of your home canning and freezing food life to it.
(You do plan to do a little canning or freezing right?)
Then add someone you know.

Keep it up and before you know it you'll be able to cancel your garbage service and split the trash collection with 5 or 6 other families.



Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Samson's Frostbite Healed



Samson the rooster healed from his frostbite without any treatment.

The frostbite turned the ends of his wattle and comb a blackish gray and I was afraid it was going to get infected or need to be dubbed.

I decided to leave well enough alone and not treat his frostbite or intervene in any way.
Glad I did.

These days he's looking as handsome as ever.



Hard to believe he was hatched in the kitchen just a little over a year ago!

Monday, May 25, 2009

The Vegetable Garden Is In

and my flower garden and fish pond are both receiving major alterations.



Memorial Day weekend traditionally kicks off summer around here.
It is when the main part of my vegetable garden is put in.

There's not much in the vegetable garden this time of year except for garlic.
And garlic won't be harvested for at least another month or so.




The weather here in western Pennsylvania doesn't settle until the end of May.
Planting tender vegetables or bedding plants much before May 23 or 24 can be a risky business.

In fact we had a hard frost here just last Monday.
The frost blackened the baby grapes and I don't think we are going to get any grapes at all this year.
Looks like a complete crop failure.
Some years that's the way it goes.

Cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, celery, onions and lettuce were planted last month during the cooler weather.



My asparagus bed was dug up and remade this year.
I only saved half of a row from the original bed and salted the part of the bed that remained to keep the weeds down.
Asparagus like salt and salt will kill unwanted weeds and grass in the bed.

I'll need to plant more asparagus crowns next year to keep me in a good supply.
Asparagus is a very long lived perennial vegetable plant.
It's my experience that a well made asparagus bed will last about 15 years - maybe more.
A new bed of asparagus takes about 3 years before it really starts to produce heavy and dependably.



This year I didn't get around to planting any spinach or peas.

I'm considering planting some spinach for salad greens in plastic tubs.
My kitchen firewood is stored next to the cook stove in plastic tubs during the wood burning season.
But in the summer the tubs sit empty and might work well for spinach.

Green beans, yellow beans, corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers, watermelon, cantaloupe, zucchini, yellow summer squash, acorn squash and winter squash were all planted yesterday in the big garden.



Beets, carrots, turnips and potatoes will follow maybe sometime this week.

Indian corn and pumpkins will go in during the first week of June.
It never pays to plant pumpkins too early.
Early planted pumpkins do not do as well as pumpkins planted after the ground has really warmed up.



My flower garden and fish pond are getting a face lift.

On one side of my pond I removed the rocks that were hiding the rubber liner.



I want my fish pond to have a more "natural" look, so I'm bringing the lawn right to the edge of it.
I plan to ease the transition from grass to water with pea size river gravel.
For now I have to trim the liner, cover it with soil and sow grass seed.
Hopefully I'll get to it this week.

The unintended consequences of of my pond redo has been that the level of the pond has dropped by about 14", a case of major algae bloom (cloudy green water) now exists and I have a big pile of rocks to move.



The pile of fish pond rocks is next to the herb garden that is also being made much smaller and redone this spring.
The herb garden is about 1/4 of the size it used to be.



My flower garden is being altered too. I want it to be much, much smaller.



I've got piles of dirt where a part of my flower bed used to be.



Click here to see the flower garden before I tore it up.
The piles of dirt will have to be leveled out and sown with grass.



The remade perennial bed has a "first year" look to it.



No matter.
In a couple of years it will look great.

For now I planted some annual flowers in an old tub.



The tub sits next to the back porch where my rocking chair is.

I figure the flowers will keep me cheered up this summer while the grass, herbs and flowers catch on and take hold.
The garden and fish pond should be back to normal and beautiful by the middle of next summer.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

The Agrarian Rat Race


"The basics of the cottage farm approach are built around the needs of the household." - The Midland Agrarian


Good post this morning from my other half The Midland Agrarian.
It should be required reading for all agrarian daydreamers, sustainable/organic farmer wannabes and people who are planning a "simpler life" in the country.

"Spring is a busy time on most small farms.

We are done with lambing, but with grass now coming on, my inevitably saggy old fences need repaired.
They are holding the sheep in more through the custom and good manners of the flock than by design.

I need to change the oil in both tractors, do some clean up in the orchard and grape arbor, and I should be cutting next year's wood.

We do have sweet and yellow onions, broccoli, early cabbage and cauliflower set in.

The next month will bring serious gardening, buying feeder pigs, and more tasks than I care to list.
I always chuckle inside about those who talk about the quiet lazy life of the countryside.

My Spring rat race is as old as farming, but there is today a more disturbing kind of agrarian rat race.

I have seen many small farmers desperately try to break into commercial production to "make the farm pay".
They channel enormous amounts of energy into livestock or produce that they can sell, and forget to provide well for themselves and their household.

This trend is visible in both traditional commercial agriculture and the newer "sustainable models".

On the traditional commercial side, I have neighbors whom I dearly love that are milking hundreds of cows but buying their milk, eggs and most vegetables from the store.

I have also known farmers who tried various sustainable or organic approaches and literally burned out financially or emotionally.

One good man I know went broke following a "sustainable" grass based beef production model as he was trying to get the right cattle genetics and buying expensive New Zealand and Dutch grass seed.

I tried going down this road in my youth.
My ambition was to clear most of the woods of the back of the farm and develop a big dairy beef grazing and feeding operation.

We also tried direct marketing vegetables and raspberries.
On the former, I lost a pile of money when beef prices collapsed.
On the later my wife and I just burned out.

Especially her, as she was also baking to add to the lure of our produce.
My big goal was to break free from off-farm work and make a full time living on the farm.

I was saved from this treadmill by a bit of luck, as I watched a much better capitalized farm go under."
You can read the rest here

Friday, May 1, 2009

Lamb Creep

A lamb creep is a protected area.



It is a place where young lambs may sleep, rest or play.
Sort of like a giant playpen.



The creep is usually designed with a vertical entry as to permit young lambs to pass through - but not adults.

A horizontal entry works just as well.
Even an old tire will work.



The point is to have the entry small enough so that adult sheep cannot get into the creep area.



A lamb creep is an important flock management tool and animal welfare consideration.

When young lambs have access to a creep they are able to get out of the way of adult sheep so that they aren't accidentally stepped on or trampled.

A creep gives them a stress free, warm and dry environment away from the adults in the flock.


A lamb creep has another important function - feeding lambs.

CREEP FEEDING

Grass is the most natural and economical food for lambs.



Spring lambs grow well on good pasture.
They often reach a market weight of 60 - 100 pounds
(depending upon the breed)
by mid to late October.

Some grass fed Autumn lambs are graded as USDA Choice, but most pasture raised lambs are sold as "feeder" lambs.

Feeder lambs are finished on concentrates (grain, mineral and legume mixtures)in feed lots to fatten them up before they are slaughtered.

There are some instances when it is desirable to supplement what young nursing lambs are eating.
In some management situations lambs benefit from what is known as "creep feeding".

Creep feeding is the early introduction of concentrates into a lamb's diet.

Nursing lambs that consume solids or concentrates are weaned sooner, make faster gains and don't put as much of a drain on their mother's bodily reserves.

This is an especially important consideration in flocks that have a large number of multiple births, older ewes that may not be milking adequately or poor pasture.

Lambs that are creep fed can be marketed sooner and often get to bypass the feedlot all together.
I personally think anything that keeps an animal out of a feedlot situation is a good thing.



By feeding lambs well away from adult sheep the lambs don't have to compete for food.

The improved nutrition and weight gains seems to bring about an early maturity in ewe lambs and allows them to be bred a bit sooner.

Creep feeding tends to making weaning a little easier and more stress free for the lambs.
It also allows for earlier weaning.

The disadvantage to creep feeding is that it is a more expensive way to raise lambs.



But this year creep feeding will more than pay for itself.
Grain prices are low and I'm feeding 11 ewe lambs to keep as breeders and want to wean my lambs early.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Kitchen Corner Shelf


Here's a quick "Show & Tell".
This is the small shelf next to the kitchen sink.
When the electric goes out I can still do the dishes with the help of a kerosene lamp.